Everything you always wondered about El Retiro Park

Retreat Views

With 125 hectares and more than 15.000 trees, the park El Retiro is a haven of peace in the heart of Madrid. Not only is it one of the lungs of the capital of Spain, but it also offers locals and visitors a wide range of culture, leisure and sports.

If you have ever been to Madrid you have probably gone to El Retiro park to walk, have a drink on its charming terraces and take some photos. However, despite its popularity, very few know the secrets of this busy urban oasis and symbol of the city.

Origins of the El Retiro park in Madrid

The origins of El Retiro park are in the seventeenth century when the valid of King Felipe IV, the Count-Duke of Olivares, gave the monarch some land for the enjoyment of the royal family. Since then it has undergone numerous modifications for different reasons. For example, when Napoleon invaded Spain in the early XNUMXth century, the gardens were practically destroyed but were later renovated during the reign of Ferdinand VII. Decades later El Retiro would also suffer great damage during the Spanish Civil War.

It was not until the Glorious Revolution of 1868 that the Retiro park became municipal property. It was then that it was opened to all citizens. Today it continues it is one of the most emblematic tourist spots Community of Madrid.

What to see in El Retiro?

Among its architectural and historical elements:

Retiro Pond

Estanque: It was ordered to be built by King Felipe IV. Its original function was to serve as a stage for mock naval battles and aquatic shows in which the monarch himself often participated. In its primitive design, it had on its banks the presence of six norias that fed it with water and in its center there was an oval-shaped islet that was used both for fishing and for theatrical performances.

Today, In its waters you can practice rowing and around 8.000 fish inhabit them. When it was emptied in 2001 to repair it, they came to light 192 chairs, 40 boats, 41 tables, 20 bins, 9 wooden benches, 3 containers, 19 City Hall fences, 50 mobile phones, a gumball vending machine, several shopping carts, numerous skateboards and even a safe.

Crystal Palace

Crystal Palace: It is one of the best examples of the so-called iron architecture in Madrid. It was built by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco in 1887 for the Philippine Exposition, held that same year. His construction project was inspired by Paxton's Crystal Palace. This romantic glass and metal pavilion was intended to be a greenhouse to house tropical plants but today it is an exhibition room with samples from the Reina Sofía Museum.

Velázquez Palace: It is located in the Retiro Park and was built between 1881 and 1883 on the occasion of the celebration of the National Mining Exhibition (May-November 1883). It is a building covered with iron vaults accompanied by glass that allow the rooms to be illuminated in a natural way. It is inspired by the Crystal Palace in London and its architect was Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, the same one who built the Palacio de Cristal.

Today the Velázquez Palace belongs to the Ministry of Culture and it is used as a temporary exhibition hall of the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía.

fallen angel retreat

Notable sculptures and fountains: The monument to Alfonso XII, the Galápagos fountain in honor of Isabel II and the reserved area of ​​Fernando VII stand out, located on the corner of O'Donnell and Menéndez Pelayo streets. The latter includes the Fisherman's House, the Artificial Mountain, and the Smuggler's House (the former Florida Park party hall). The statue of The Fallen Angel is very popular as it is the only sculpture in the world that represents the devil..

The nature of El Retiro

Rose Garden of the Retreat

Some of the gardens of the El Retiro park deserve special attention due to their particular beauty: the Vivaces garden, the gardens and the rose garden of Cecilio Rodríguez (classicist gardens with Andalusian airs and rose gardens in the Parisian style), the gardens of the Architect Herrero Palacios and the French Parterre with the Ciprés Calvo, the oldest tree in Madrid of origin Mexican which is said to be around 400 years old.

The Forest of the Absent is a small garden built as a tribute to the victims of the Madrid attack on March 11, 2004. Inaugurated just one year later, it is made up of 170 cypresses and 22 olive trees.

Madrid Book Fair in El Retiro

retreat book fair

Since its inauguration in 1933 on Paseo de Recoletos, the Book Fair has not stopped growing and contributing to the cultural mosaic of Madrid. Due to the growing increase in requests for participation from booksellers, publishers and distributors, a new space had to be found, and for this reason in 1967 the Book Fair was moved to the El Retiro park. Time has shown that the choice of this space was a success.

Thus Parque de El Retiro is closely linked to literature. This annual appointment is an excellent opportunity to obtain special discounts and the dedication of well-known writers, since every day signing sessions are held in the booths of publishers and bookstores.


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